02/05/1998   English German

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San Francisco, 02-05-1998
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Figure [1]: Two locals with bicycles on the Golden Gate Bridge

Dear friends!

San Francisco In The Rainy Season

Angelika Since it seems that the rainy season has just started in San Francisco (so much for "it never rains here") and we can hardly venture outside, I thought I'd update you all with the latest news from here. So, grab your reading glasses, get cozy in the corner of the sofa, turn off the TV, and enjoy:

First of all, let me tell you about our Christmas celebration. Our Christmas tree was, of course, the most beautiful ever. Buying the tree went off without a hitch. Michael did grimace painfully when he had to shell out $45 for the tree, but he was in a good mood again right away because, for an extra $10, the tree was delivered to our apartment. This meant he didn't have to carry the tree over two hills or, worse, take it on the streetcar, which would surely have been newsworthy here. Once the tree was finally in our apartment, we realized it was quite large for our place, even though we had bought one of the smallest (Americans do love everything a bit oversized). As a result, we first had to rearrange our apartment. I tried not to groan or complain, otherwise, Michael would surely have commented, "You were the one who insisted on having a tree!" Despite these minor difficulties, the tree shone and glowed in American colors on Christmas Eve, and the fire department didn't have to be called, even with the real candles. My overly cautious electrical engineer, who tinkers with high-voltage lines without fear, had placed a bucket of water in our bathroom just in case. Everything went wonderfully. Initially, we were a bit worried that we might feel a bit lonely under our tree, but then we received so much lovely mail, calls, and packages that we didn't feel so far away anymore. To everyone who thought of us and didn't shy away from the horrendous postage and astronomical phone charges, we say a special "Thank you!" We truly appreciate it. On Christmas Eve, we had fondue, as per old tradition, and on Christmas Day, we couldn't resist getting real Nuremberg sausages and sauerkraut from the German store "Speckmanns" around the corner, even though we hardly ever ate them in Munich. But that's how it is when you spend Christmas "abroad" (sniff!). By the way, the store is also very popular with Americans, and the absolute hit is German "Negerküsse" (unfortunately, I don't know the new politically correct term for this treat).

By Bicycle over the Golden Gate Bridge.

Figure [2]: Angelika is not racing, but rather enjoying the view.

Angelika We have already completed our Golden Gate Bridge crossing by bicycle. We did it in bright sunshine, so the bridge was glowing in its most beautiful red. To avoid too many hills and dangerous roads (that's not for me), we first took our bikes on the BART (subway in San Francisco) and went to the Embarcadero (anyone who has been to San Francisco knows where that is; for those unfamiliar: it's a street that runs right along the water). And then we continued along the water towards the Golden Gate, always keeping our eyes on the bridge, Alcatraz, and the boats on the bay.

In such moments, it becomes clear why no one ever wants to leave this city, despite the acute risk of earthquakes--it's just that beautiful. On the bridge itself, we even had our own bike lane. On weekends, both sidewalks of the bridge are open; one is for pedestrians, and the other is for cyclists. However, this leads to cyclists speeding so fast that it really made me anxious. After all, I wanted to enjoy the view and not participate in the Tour de France.

And so that you also know how we felt during the crossing, I will quickly quote John Steinbeck: "Then I drove over the great arch of the bridge suspended by cables and was in the city. It had remained the City I remembered, so confident in its size that it could afford to be friendly.

Figure [3]: View from the bridge over to Marin Headlands

On New Year's Eve, we attended a gala at the prestigious Fairmont Hotel. The hotel is well-known in Germany because the American series "Hotel" was filmed there, which also aired on German television for a long time (something similar to "Traumschiff" but without the ship). There was a fantastic meal, champagne galore, a musical show, and utterly ridiculous-looking party hats that everyone enthusiastically put on just before midnight (not us, of course). We had a great time, although we were a bit disappointed that the party ended shortly after midnight while we were still in a festive mood. Well, you can't have everything. By the way, there's a funny tradition here on New Year's Eve. In the morning, office workers in downtown San Francisco throw their old calendar pages out the window. Since most offices are in skyscrapers, it's particularly impressive.

Figure [4]: New Year's Eve at the Fairmont Hotel, where we let a ball photographer sell us this photo for thirty dollars.

Dim Sum and Other Delicacies

Angelika Due to the bad weather (does El Nino actually exist?), we have had to move our weekend activities indoors to places with a roof over our heads. So, we've been visiting various museums and trying out new restaurants. San Francisco and the entire Bay Area is truly a culinary hotspot, and it's hard to decide where to go because there's so much choice. We thought it would be smart to visit restaurants that we wouldn't easily find in Germany. So, we first tried Ethiopian cuisine, which was good, cheap, and fun. The restaurant is called "Blue Nile" and is an absolute insider tip. You sit in dimly lit cubicles separated by wooden bead curtains and eat with your fingers. You tear off a piece of Ethiopian bread called "Injera" (imagine it like a pancake) and use it to scoop up the vegetables or meat. You drink honey wine with it, which is a real hit. Another culinary highlight: The world's best Dim Sum restaurant on Geary Street. Those of you who have traveled to Asia will know what Dim Sum is. Legend has it (or rather, my restaurant guide claims) that Dim Sum originated because Chinese businessmen loved spending hours in tea houses to conduct their business. Since one tends to get hungry during this, the tea houses began offering small snacks. This is still done today as follows: Waiters push small serving carts through the restaurant, and you simply take what you like, with each cart offering something different. There are clams, crabs, or mushrooms wrapped in noodle dough, called dumplings, spring rolls, mango cream, etc. It's definitely really good! Now that your mouth is probably watering, I'll end my excursion into the land of gourmets. On a side note, it's worth mentioning that Michael has enrolled in a course starting mid-February to learn proper wine tasting. It covers European and Californian wines. Since we have the Napa and Sonoma Valleys (wine regions) right at our doorstep and have already done some wine tastings, Michael has developed the ambition to learn how to distinguish a good wine from a bad one. The era of supermarket wine is definitely over.

German Film Festival in San Francisco

Angelika Recently, we had the opportunity once again to admire Götz George, Mario Adorf, Gudrun Landgrebe, and their peers here at one of our movie theaters. It was the German Film Festival, organized annually by the Goethe-Institut in San Francisco. The festival primarily showcases films by young German-speaking filmmakers. However, this year's closing film was by Helmut Dietl, who is, as we know, neither new nor unknown. It was set in an Italian restaurant in Munich, and of course, we couldn't miss it. Although the film didn't exactly blow us away, it was amusing to see a German film (with English subtitles) and the Munich scenery again. We noticed how many naked people were shown (Götz George, of course, had to show off his physique once again to prove how well he's maintained himself). The American woman next to me was quite taken aback (by the amount of nudity, not Götz George's physique). In American movies, such scenes are usually only subtly hinted at. This is where American prudery and strange double standards come into full play. After all, no one seems to mind that Bill Clinton's sex life is being publicly and as sensationally as possible discussed at the moment.

Here, Michael still needs to add something: In the movie theater, there was also a "typically German" attraction (at least that's what the American curators thought) - a fully blown pipe organ. An older gentleman with a helmet haircut played German melodies on it before the movie started. Otherwise, you felt like you were in Germany in that cinema: "People spoke German!" San Francisco is really teeming with this kind of people. And when Michael commented on the gentleman's hairstyle with "Wow, he looks like an old Nazi!", Angelika quickly silenced him.

American Television

Angelika Regarding American media, I've wanted to make a few general remarks on this topic for a long time. First of all, the news on television should be mentioned. World news or international news only appears under two conditions: either the USA has to be somehow involved, such as in the collision of the American military plane with the cable car in Italy or the current conflict between Saddam Hussein and Bill Clinton, or an absolutely media-effective catastrophe has occurred, like the earthquake in Italy some time ago. Otherwise, the majority of the news deals with domestic politics or local matters, where one sometimes doubts the editor's judgment regarding the selection of these news stories. Not too long ago, the top news story, which was presented first, was that a pet pig got lost on the Bay Bridge. At first, I thought it was a joke because I couldn't believe that a somewhat serious TV station would dare to sell something like that as the news of the day, but it was indeed true. When you also consider that many Americans use TV news as their sole source of information, it's no wonder they know hardly anything about Europe. Of course, TV news, like other programs, is constantly interrupted by commercial breaks, which is really extremely annoying. You are familiar with this by now through private channels in Germany, and if I remember correctly, there's already a commercial break before the weather report on the Heute news broadcast. You just have to imagine it even more extreme here. Recently, for example, the movie "Dead Poets Society" was on TV. Due to the commercial breaks, the film lasted a full three hours (I would estimate the normal runtime to be about 90 minutes). Michael and I are now so annoyed by the commercial interruptions that we are increasingly renting videos or going to the movie theater, where, funnily enough, there is no advertising at all.

To return once more to the news: On one hand, as mentioned, there is hardly any international news, while on the other hand, other events are followed almost obsessively, such as the aforementioned alleged sex affair of Bill Clinton. The regular TV program is even interrupted for this. Last week, these interruptions made me quite nervous because, alongside the scandal involving Clinton, the likelihood of a military strike against Iraq was increasing. With each interruption, I thought we were on the brink of another Gulf War, but in reality, it was just another political figure being interviewed about whether Clinton had an affair with the intern or not. Some cynics claim that Clinton is only delaying the military strike so that he cannot later be accused of starting a war to distract from the Monica Lewinsky affair.

Ironically, there is currently a movie with Dustin Hoffman on exactly this topic ("Wag the Dog"). In the film, the president starts a war to cover up an affair. The reporting on the execution of Karla Faye Tucker was also particularly tasteless. The wait for the execution became a media spectacle par excellence. One can only be glad that it is not yet allowed to broadcast an execution live. Nevertheless, CNN and NBC tried to extract as much as they could. Reporters camped outside the prison and described in detail how the execution process would proceed if the appeal was denied. The transition to the commercial break was made with the words: "Only 40 minutes until the execution." It sounded like a countdown before a rocket launch, truly grotesque. I don't know to what extent you have followed the background of this media spectacle in Germany. Karla Faye Tucker received media attention mainly because she was to be the first woman executed in Texas. Texas holds the leading position in a very sad statistic: it is the state with the most executions per year in the USA, although until now, no woman was among them. The dispute between supporters and opponents of the death penalty regarding Karla Faye Tucker can be summarized roughly as follows: The conservative supporters suddenly found it morally reprehensible to execute a woman, especially since she had converted in prison from a former drug-addicted prostitute who murdered two people in a drug frenzy to an active Christian, a fact that never played a role for previously executed men. The opponents of the death penalty argued that if one supports the death penalty, there should be no gender differences. It quickly became clear that Karla Tucker only became a media sensation because she was white, female, attractive, and a converted Christian. What I find particularly unfortunate about this story is that the media did not take the opportunity to discuss the death penalty in general and reflect on how a democratic state can even consider the death penalty a legitimate legal means of punishing people.

Even in American daily newspapers, one is not exactly bombarded with news from Europe, but there are definitely more foreign reports than on television. Additionally, there are, of course, newspapers like the New York Times, which report in detail on all kinds of world and foreign events. So, I was quite surprised to find a detailed report in the Chronicle (a daily newspaper from San Francisco) about the Pope's letter to the German Bishops' Conference regarding Catholic pregnancy counseling centers and the issuance of the much-debated counseling certificate. This might also be because there is a strict separation between church and state in the USA, and Americans find a strong entanglement between church and state both dangerous and highly suspicious. Speaking of abortion, around the same time as the "Pope counseling center story" in Germany, the topic of "abortion" was also a hot topic here. This year marks the 25th anniversary of the U.S. Supreme Court's decision that abortions in the first trimester of pregnancy are legal in the USA. Despite its legality, the topic of "abortion" is also discussed very emotionally here. Additionally, for several years, there have been fanatical anti-abortion activists who carry out bomb attacks on abortion clinics. Just last week, there was another such attack.

Visiting the Workplace

Figure [5]: Once again on bicycles through the city, here at Lake Merced

Angelika So, enough with the serious topics for now. Since Michael entertained you in the last two issues with stories from his AOL life, he won't be giving his two cents on the state of the nation today, as he is currently working on the second, revised edition of his book and is a bit stressed. The manuscript needs to be submitted to the publisher by mid-March. I hope your disappointment is limited; you'll have to make do with me. Besides, this time I can contribute a story on the topic of AOL myself. Some time ago, Michael and I rented a car again to drive around the area, and on this occasion, we also went to San Mateo, where Michael showed me where he works. And it really is as he described it. A pool table in the break room, where Michael takes his creative breaks every day, which has led him to become the world's best pool player (or so he claims), and of course the famous cubicles (small offices created by dividing the space with partitions). Since we were at AOL on a holiday, I unfortunately couldn't meet Michael's colleagues, but the personal decoration of the cubicles said a lot about each individual, even though they weren't present. One looked like a church, with a huge Madonna hanging over the computer, and another had turned his cubicle into a candy store. There were at least six candy jars with various sweets. Only Michael's was very tidy, but he also wants to give his cubicle a personal touch as soon as possible. It will be interesting to see what he does with it.

And now, finally, the relieving news: After more than a year, I am the proud owner of a California driver's license. Hooray!!!!

With this good news, I conclude today's newsletter. Take care and get in touch!

Angelika and Michael

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